Hunting lines - Jägerleinen

Hunter Cap (also reed linen ) is a robust, green-, and braunmeliertes fabric of half-linen , cotton or viscose . [1] It is often used for summer clothing in traditional costume style , as well as for curtains and the like.

History and use

For centuries, linen was used as a material for various types of clothing in Central Europe, especially in rural areas. With the advance of cotton towards the end of the 19th century, however, the use of this fabric decreased significantly. Around 1910, the artist Carl Mayr from Henndorf am Wallersee began to make designs for men's and women's clothing and used this material. Among other things, he had suits, costumes and dirndls made from light linen with a variety of green decorations (oak leaves, chamois, alpine flowers, etc.) based on his sketches . Since Henndorf was especially popular with artists as a summer resort , Mayr's creations soon became popular with visitors to theSalzburg Festival and in the 1920s and 1930s it became widespread throughout the German-speaking region. There are also photos from this period showing Marlene Dietrich and Max Reinhardt in hunter's linen clothes. [2]

From the side of the established folklore , which dealt with the preservation of the traditional costumes , these new developments as "summer visitor fashion" were strongly opposed. These were "very strange, only very vaguely reminiscent of an original costume garments," there is a risk that they are "back invade their überfremdeten, distorted shape to the people and would climb gradually in place of the original." [3] The However, this criticism did not diminish further dissemination, especially in urban circles.

Today traditional clothing made of hunter's linen is widespread and is worn a lot, especially in Vienna and the city of Salzburg , especially by younger members of the traditionally-minded “better society”. [4]

Individual evidence

  1. stofflexikon.com: Jägerleinen
  2. ^ Franz C. Lipp et al. (Ed.): Tracht in Österreich. Past and present . Verlag Christian Brandstätter, Vienna 1984, ISBN 3-85447-028-2 , p. 231 f.
  3. z. B. Hanns Koren / Leopold Kretzenbacher (ed.): People and homeland. Festschrift for Viktor von Geramb . Verlag Anton Pustet, Graz et al., 1949, p. 10 f.
  4. Lipp, S. 259, Anm. 1